A traveler stood on a dark street in Mérida as hundreds of ghostly figures dressed all in white walked quietly past, each with a single flame illuminating their skull-painted face, before the atmosphere shifted with the sound of music and laughter during the Day of the Dead festival.
While Mexico City attracts thousands for its skeleton-themed parades around November 2, the underrated city of Mérida in the Yucatán peninsula also comes alive for the celebrations. Day of the Dead is known locally as Hanal Pixan, meaning food for the souls in Mayan, where people gather to remember departed loved ones with home-made altars and offerings.
The multi-day fiesta began with a candlelit procession of souls moving from the cemetery into town, which then opened up into a massive street party along Calle 64. The avenue featured giant skeleton structures, millions of orange marigold flowers, and family shrines blasting reggaeton or ranchera music while selling bulk meals to passersby.
Visitors can sample regional specialties such as slow-roasted pork known as cochinita pibil, pan de muerto sweet bread, and marquesitas. The city also offers cheap tacos al pastor for MX$10 or 40p each, dining at Taquería De La Unión, traditional dishes in a jungle courtyard at the Museum of Yucatecan Gastronomy, and chilaquiles at Marmalade 47.
Cash pesos are recommended for food stands, while most bars and restaurants accept cards. Arriving early for the main parade allowed viewers to spot skeleton stilt walkers, mariachi bands, traditional dancers, pets in costume, and elegant Catrinas wearing elaborate face paint and sombreros.
The kid-friendly event lacked gore and jump-scares, accompanied by smaller festivities across the city for nearly a week, including concerts and street-corner Maya rituals performed by shamans. Afterward, visitors found a hidden speakeasy named Malahat behind a fridge door near the plazas.
Mérida features colorful colonial architecture, horse and carriage rides, and serves as a base to visit cenotes, the white sands of Puerto Progreso located 40 minutes away, and the Maya ruins of Chichén Itzá.
